Under
tall arcades of palms with ribbed and groined branches, in a soft
meadow, I found the trim camp of Egyptian Army soldiers with Nafi Bey,
their Egyptian major, sent lately from the Sudan by Sir Reginald Wingate
to help the Arab rebellion. They comprised a mountain battery and some
machine-guns, and looked smarter than they felt. Nafi himself was an
amiable fellow, kind and hospitable to me.
in spite of weak health and
his resentment at having been sent so far away into the desert to serve
in an unnecessary and toilsome war.
Egyptians, being home-loving persons and
comfortable, found strangeness always a misery. In this bad instance
they suffered hardship for a philanthropic end, which made it harder.
They were fighting the Turks, for whom they had a sentimental regard, on
behalf of the Arabs, an alien people speaking a language kindred to
their own, but appearing therefore all the more unlike in character, and
crude in life. The Arabs seemed hostile to the material blessings of
civilization rather than appreciative of them. They met with a ribald
hoot well-meaning attempts to furnish their bareness.
Englishmen being sure of their own absolute
excellence would persist in help without grumbling overmuch; but the
Egyptians lost faith. They had neither that collective sense of duty
towards their State, nor that feeling of individual obligation to push
struggling humanity up its road. The vicarious policemanship which was
the strongest emotion of Englishmen towards another man's muddle, in
their case was replaced by the instinct to pass by as discreetly far as
possible on the other side. So, though all was well with these soldiers,
and they had abundant rations and good health and no casualties, yet
they found fault with the handling of the universe, and hoped this
unexpected Englishman had come to set it right.
Feisal was announced with Maulud el Mukhlus, the
Arab zealot of Tekrit, who, for rampant nationalism had been twice
degraded in the Turkish Army, and had spent an exile of two years in
Nejd as a secretary with ibn Rashid. He had commanded the Turkish
cavalry before Shaiba, and had been taken by us there. As soon as he
heard of the rebellion of the Sherif he had volunteered for him, and had
been the first regular officer to join Feisal. He was now nominally his
A.D.C.
Bitterly
he complained that they were in every way ill-equipped. This was the
main cause of their present plight. They got thirty thousand pounds a
month from the Sherif, but little flour and rice, little barley, few
rifles, insufficient ammunition, no machine-guns, no mountain guns, no
technical help, no information.
I stopped Maulud there and said that my coming was
expressly to learn what they lacked and to report it, but that I could
work with them only if they would explain to me their general situation.
Feisal agreed, and began to sketch to me the history of their revolt
from its absolute beginning.
The first rush on Medina had been a desperate
business. The Arabs were ill-armed and short of ammunition, the Turks in
great force, since Fakhri's detachment had just arrived and the troops
to escort von Stotzingen to Yemen were still in the town. At the height
of the crisis the Beni Ali broke; and the Arabs were thrust out beyond
the walls. The Turks then opened fire on them with their artillery; and
the Arabs, unused to this new arm, became terrified. The Ageyl and Ateiba got into safety and refused to move out again. Feisal and Ali ibn
el Hussein vainly rode about in front of their men in the open, to show
them that the bursting shells were not as fatal as they sounded. The
demoralization deepened.
Sections of Beni Ali tribesmen approached the
Turkish command with an offer to surrender, if their villages were
spared. Fakhri played with them, and in the ensuing lull of hostilities
surrounded the Awali suburb with his troops: then whom suddenly he ordered
them to carry it by assault and to massacre every living thing within
its walls. Hundreds of the inhabitants were raped and butchered, the
houses fired, and living and dead alike thrown back into the flames.
Fakhri and his men had served together and had learned the arts of both
the slow and the fast kill upon the Armenians in the North.
This bitter taste of the Turkish mode of war sent a
shock across Arabia; for the first rule of Arab war was that women were
inviolable: the second that the lives and honour of children too young
to fight with men were to be spared: the third, that property impossible
to carry off should be left undamaged. The Arabs with Feisal perceived
that they were opposed to new customs, and fell back out of touch to
gain time to readjust themselves. There could no longer be any question
of submission: the sack of Awali had opened blood feud upon blood feud,
and put on them the
duty of fighting to the end of their force: but it was plain now that it
would be a long affair, and that with muzzle-loading guns for sole
weapons, they could hardly expect to win.
So they fell back from the level plains about
Medina into the hills across the Sultani-road, about Aar and Raha and
Bir Abbas, where they rested
a little, while Ali and Feisal sent
messenger after messenger down to Rabegh, their sea-base, to learn when
fresh stores and money and arms might be expected. The revolt had begun
haphazard, on their father's explicit orders, and the old man, too
independent to take his sons into his full confidence, had not worked
out with them any arrangements for prolonging it. So the reply was only
a little food. Later some Japanese rifles, most of them broken, were
received. Such barrels as were still whole were so foul that the
too-eager Arabs burst them on the first trial. No money was sent up at
all: to take its place Feisal filled a decent chest with stones, had it
locked and corded carefully, guarded on each daily march by his own
slaves, and introduced meticulously into his tent each night. By such
theatricals the brothers tried to hold a melting force.
At last Ali went down to Rabegh to inquire what was
wrong with the organization. He found that Hussein Mabeirig, the local
chief, had made up his mind that the Turks would be victorious (he had
tried conclusions with them twice himself and had the worst of it), and
accordingly decided theirs was the best cause to follow. As the stores
for the Sherif were landed by the British he appropriated them and
stored them away secretly in his own houses. Ali made a demonstration,
and sent urgent messages for his half-brother Zeid to join him from
Jidda with reinforcements. Hussein, in fear, slipped off to the hills,
an outlaw. The two Sherifs took possession of his villages. In them they
found great stores of arms, and food enough for their armies for a
month. The temptation of a spell of leisured ease was too much for them:
they settled down in Rabegh.
This left Feisal alone up country, and he soon
found himself isolated, in a hollow situation, driven to depend upon his
native resources. He bore it for a time, but in August took advantage of
the visit of Colonel Wilson to the newly-conquered Yenbo, to come down
and give a full explanation of his urgent needs. Wilson was impressed
with him and his story, and at once promised him a battery of mountain
guns and some maxims, to be handled by men and officers of the Egyptian
Army garrison in the Sudan. This explained the presence of Nafi Bey and
his units.
The
Arabs rejoiced when they came, and believed they were now equals of the
Turk; but the four guns were twenty-year-old Krupps, with a range of
only three thousand yards; and their crews were not eager enough in
brain and spirit for irregular fighting. However, they went forward with
the mob and drove in the Turkish outposts, and then their supports,
until Fakhri becoming seriously alarmed, came down himself, inspected
the front, and at once reinforced the threatened detachment at Bir Abbas
to some three thousand strong. The Turks had field guns and howitzers
with them, and the added advantage of high ground for observation. They
began to worry the Arabs by indirect fire, and nearly dropped a shell on
Feisal's tent while all the head men were conferring within. The
Egyptian gunners were asked to return the fire and smother the enemy
guns. They had to plead that their weapons were useless, since they
could not carry the nine thousand yards. They were derided; and the
Arabs ran back again into the defiles.
Feisal was deeply discouraged. His men were tired.
He had lost many of them. His only effective tactics against the enemy
had been to chase in suddenly upon their rear by fast mounted charges,
and many camels had been killed, or wounded or worn out in these
expensive measures. He demurred to carrying the whole war upon his own
neck while Abdulla delayed in Mecca, and Ali and Zeid at Rabegh. Finally
he withdrew the bulk of his forces, leaving the Harb sub-tribes who
lived by Bir Abbas to keep up pressure on the Turkish supply columns and
communications by a repeated series of such raids as those which he
himself found impossible to maintain.
Yet he had no fear that the Turks would again come
forward against him suddenly. His failure to make any impression on them
had not imbued him with the smallest respect for them. His late
retirement to Hamra was not forced: it was a gesture of disgust because
he was bored by his obvious impotence, and was determined for a little
while to have the dignity of rest.
After all, the two sides were still untried. The
armament of the Turks made them so superior at long range that the Arabs
never got to grips. For this reason most of the hand-to-hand fighting
had taken place at night, when the guns were blinded. To my ears they
sounded oddly primitive battles, with torrents of words on both sides in
a preliminary match of wits. After the foulest insults of the languages
they knew would come the climax, when the Turks in frenzy called the
Arabs 'English', and
the Arabs screamed back 'German' at them. There were, of course, no
Germans in the Hejaz, and I was the first Englishman; but each party
loved cursing, and any epithet would sting on the tongues of such
artists.
I asked Feisal what his plans were now. He said
that till Medina fell they were inevitably tied down there in Hejaz
dancing to Fakhri's tune. In his opinion the Turks were aiming at the
recapture of Mecca. The bulk of their strength was now in a mobile
column, which they could move towards Rabegh by a choice of routes which
kept the Arabs in constant alarm. A passive defence of the Subh hills
had shown that the Arabs did not shine as passive resisters. When the
enemy moved they must be countered by an offensive.
Feisal meant to retire further yet, to the Wadi
Yenbo border of the great Juheina tribe. With fresh levies from them he
would march eastwards towards the Hejaz Railway behind Medina, at the
moment when Abdulla was advancing by the lava-desert to attack Medina
from the east. He hoped that Ali would go up simultaneously from Rabegh,
while Zeid moved into Wadi Safra to engage the big Turkish force at Bir
Abbas, and keep it out of the main battle. By this plan Medina would be
threatened or attacked on all sides at once. Whatever the success of the
attack, the concentration from three sides would at least break up the
prepared Turkish push outwards on the fourth, and give Rabegh and the
southern Hejaz a breathing space to equip themselves for effective
defence, or counter-attack.
Maulud, who had sat fidgeting through our long,
slow talk, could no longer restrain himself and cried out, 'Don't write
a history of us. The needful thing is to fight and fight and kill them.
Give me a battery of Schneider mountain guns, and machine-guns, and I
will finish this off for you. We talk and talk and do nothing.' I
replied as warmly; and Maulud, a magnificent fighter, who regarded a
battle won as a battle wasted if he did not show some wound to prove his
part in it, took me up. We wrangled while Feisal sat by and
grinned delightedly at us.
This talk had been for him a holiday. He was
encouraged even by the trifle of my coming; for he was a man of moods,
flickering between glory and despair, and just now dead-tired. He looked
years older than thirty-one; and his dark, appealing eyes, set a little
sloping in his face, were bloodshot, and his hollow cheeks deeply lined
and puckered with reflection. His nature grudged thinking, for it
crippled his speed in action: the labour of it shrivelled his features
into swift lines of pain. In appearance
he was tall, graceful and vigorous, with the most beautiful gait, and a
royal dignity of head and shoulders. Of course he knew it, and a great
part of his public expression was by sign and gesture.
His movements were impetuous. He showed himself
hot-tempered and sensitive, even unreasonable, and he ran off soon on
tangents. Appetite and physical weakness were mated in him, with the
spur of courage. His personal charm, his imprudence, the pathetic hint
of frailty as the sole reserve of this proud character made him the idol
of his followers. One never asked if he were scrupulous; but later he
showed that he could return trust for trust, suspicion for suspicion. He
was fuller of wit than of humour.
His training in Abdul Hamid's entourage had made
him past-master in diplomacy. His military service with the Turks had
given him a working knowledge of tactics. His life in Constantinople and
in the Turkish Parliament had made him familiar with European questions
and manners. He was a careful judge of men. If he had the strength to
realize his dreams he would go very far, for he was wrapped up in his
work and lived for nothing else; but the fear was that he would wear
himself out by trying to seem to aim always a little higher than the
truth, or that he would die of too much action. His men told me how,
after a long spell of fighting, in which he had to guard himself, and
lead the charges, and control and encourage them, he had collapsed
physically and was carried away from his victory, unconscious, with the
foam flecking his lips.
Meanwhile, here, as it seemed, was offered to our
hand, which had only to be big enough to take it, a prophet who, if
veiled, would give cogent form to the idea behind the activity of the
Arab revolt. It was all and more than we had hoped for, much more than
our halting course deserved. The aim of my trip was fulfilled.
My duty was now to take the shortest road to Egypt
with the news: and the knowledge gained that evening in the palm wood
grew and blossomed in my mind into a thousand branches, laden with fruit
and shady leaves, beneath which I sat and half-listened and saw visions,
while the twilight deepened, and the night; until a line of slaves with
lamps came down the winding paths between the palm trunks, and with
Feisal and Maulud we walked back through the gardens to the little
house, with its courts still full of waiting people, and to the hot
inner room in which the familiars were assembled; and there we sat down
together to the smoking bowl of rice and meat set upon the food-carpet
for our supper by the slaves.
[Seven Pillars Chapter 14 omitted
here. None of its text appears in Revolt]
Next
morning I was up early and out among Feisal's troops towards the side of
Kheif, by myself, trying to feel the pulse of their opinions in a
moment, by such tricks as those played upon their chiefs the night
before. Time was of the essence of my effort, for it was necessary to
gain in ten days the impressions which would ordinarily have been the
fruit of weeks of observing in my crab-fashion, that sideways-slipping
affair of the senses. Normally I would go along all day, with the sounds
immediate, but blind to every detail, only generally aware that there
were things red, or things grey, or clear things about me. To-day my
eyes had to be switched straight to my brain, that I might note a thing
or two the more clearly by contrast with the former mistiness. Such
things were nearly always shapes: rocks and trees, or men's bodies in
repose or movement: not small things like flowers, nor qualities like
colour.
Yet here was strong need of a lively reporter. In
this drab war the least irregularity was a joy to all, and McMahon's
strongest course was to exploit the latent imagination of the General
Staff. I believed in the Arab movement, and was confident, before ever I
came, that in it was the idea to tear Turkey into pieces; but others in
Egypt lacked faith, and had been taught nothing intelligent of the Arabs
in the field. By noting down something of the spirit of these romantics
in the hills about the Holy Cities I might gain the sympathy of Cairo
for the further measures necessary to help them.
The men received me cheerfully. Beneath every great
rock or bush they sprawled like lazy scorpions, resting from the heat,
and refreshing their brown limbs with the early coolness of the shaded
stone. Because of my khaki they took me for a Turk-trained officer who
had deserted to them, and were profuse in good-humoured but ghastly
suggestions of how they should treat me. Most of them were young, though
the term 'fighting man' in the Hejaz meant anyone between twelve and
sixty sane enough to shoot. They were a tough-looking crowd,
dark-coloured, some negroid. They were physically thin, but exquisitely
made, moving with an oiled activity altogether delightful to watch. It
did not seem possible that men could be hardier or harder. They would
ride immense distances
day after day, run through sand and over rocks bare-foot in the heat for
hours without pain, and climb their hills like goats. Their clothing was
mainly a loose shirt, with sometimes short cotton drawers, and a
head-shawl usually of red cloth, which acted towel or handkerchief or
sack as required. They were corrugated with bandoliers, and fired
joy-shots when they could.
They were in wild spirits, shouting that the war
might last ten years. It was the fattest time the hills had ever known.
The Sherif was feeding not only the fighting men, but their families,
and paying two pounds a month for a man, four for a camel.
Nothing else
would have performed the miracle of keeping a tribal army in the field
for five months on end. It was our habit to sneer at Oriental soldiers'
love of pay; but the Hejaz campaign was a good example of the
limitations of that argument. The Turks were offering great bribes, and
obtaining little service - no active service. The Arabs took their
money, and gave gratifying assurances in exchange; yet these very tribes
would be meanwhile in touch with Feisal, who obtained service for his
payment. The Turks cut the throats of their prisoners with knives, as
though they were butchering sheep. Feisal offered a reward of a pound a
head for prisoners, and had many carried in to him unhurt. He also paid
for captured mules or rifles.
The actual contingents were continually shifting,
in obedience to the rule of flesh. A family would own a rifle, and the
sons serve in turn for a few days each. Married men alternated between
camp and wife, and sometimes a whole clan would become bored and take a
rest. Consequently the paid men were more than those mobilised; and
policy often gave to great sheikhs, as wages, money that was a polite
bribe for friendly countenance. Feisal's eight thousand men were one in
ten camel-corps and the rest hill-men. They served only under their
tribal sheikhs, and near home, arranging their own food and transport.
Nominally each sheikh had a hundred followers. Sherifs acted as group
leaders, in virtue of their privileged position, which raised them above
the jealousies which shackled the tribesmen.
Blood feuds were nominally healed, and really
suspended in the Sherifian area: Billi and Juheina, Ateiba and Ageyl
living and fighting side by side in Feisal's army. All the same, the
members of one tribe were shy of those of another, and within the tribe
no man would quite trust his neighbour. Each might be, usually was,
whole-hearted against the Turk, but perhaps not quite to the point of
failing to work off a family
grudge upon a family enemy in the field. Consequently they could not
attack. One company of Turks firmly entrenched in open country could
have defied the entire army of them; and a pitched defeat, with its
casualties, would have ended the war by sheer horror.
I concluded that the tribesmen were good for
defence only. Their acquisitive recklessness made them keen on booty,
and whetted them to tear up railways, plunder caravans, and steal
camels; but they were too free-minded to endure command, or to fight in
team. A man who could fight well by himself made generally a bad
soldier, and these champions seemed to me no material for our drilling;
but if we strengthened them by light automatic guns of the Lewis type,
to be handled by themselves, they might be capable of holding their
hills and serving as an efficient screen behind which we could build up,
perhaps at Rabegh, an Arab regular mobile column, capable of meeting a
Turkish force (distracted by guerilla warfare) on terms, and of
defeating it piecemeal. For such a body of real soldiers no recruits
would be forthcoming from Hejaz. It would have to be formed of the heavy
unwarlike Syrian and Mesopotamian towns-folk already in our hands, and
officered by Arabic-speaking officers trained in the Turkish army, men
of the type and history of Aziz el Masri or Maulud. They would
eventually finish the war by striking, while the tribesmen skirmished
about, and hindered and distracted the Turks by their pin-prick raids.
The Hejaz war, meanwhile, would be one of dervishes
against regular troops. It was the fight of a rocky, mountainous, barren
country (reinforced by a wild horde of mountaineers) against an enemy so
enriched in equipment by the Germans as almost to have lost virtue for
rough-and-tumble war. The hill-belt was a paradise for snipers; and
Arabs were artists in sniping. Two or three hundred determined men
knowing the ranges should hold any section of them; because the slopes
were too steep for escalade. The valleys, which were the only
practicable roads, for miles and miles were not so much valleys as
chasms or gorges, sometimes two hundred yards across, but sometimes only
twenty, full of twists and turns, one thousand or four thousand feet
deep, barren of cover, and flanked each side by pitiless granite, basalt
and porphyry, not in polished slopes, but serrated and split and piled
up in thousands of jagged heaps of fragments as hard as metal and nearly
as sharp.
It seemed to my unaccustomed eyes impossible that,
without treachery on
the part of the mountain tribes, the Turks could dare to break their way
through. Even with treachery as an ally, to pass the hills would be
dangerous. The enemy would never be sure that the fickle population
might not turn again; and to have such a labyrinth of defiles in the
rear, across the communications, would be worse than having it in front.
Without the friendship of the tribes, the Turks would own only the
ground on which their soldiers stood; and lines so long and complex
would soak up thousands of men in a fortnight, and leave none in the
battle-front.
The sole disquieting feature was the very real
success of the Turks in frightening the Arabs by artillery.
Aziz el Masri in the Turk-Italian war in Tripoli had found the same terror, but
had found also that it wore off. We might hope that the same would
happen here; but for the moment The sound of a fired cannon sent every
man within earshot behind cover. They thought weapons destructive in
proportion to their noise. They were not afraid of bullets, not indeed
overmuch of dying: just the manner of death by shell-fire was
unendurable. It seemed to me that their moral confidence was to be
restored only by having guns, useful or useless, but noisy, on their
side. From the magnificent Feisal down to the most naked stripling in
the army the theme was artillery, artillery, artillery.
When I told them of the landing of the five-inch
howitzers at Rabegh they rejoiced. Such news nearly balanced in their
minds the check of their last retreat down Wadi Safra. The guns would be
of no real use to them: indeed, it seemed to me that they would do the
Arabs positive harm; for their virtues lay in mobility and intelligence,
and by giving them guns we hampered their movements and efficiency. Only
if we did not give them guns they would quit.
At these close quarters the bigness of the revolt
impressed me. This well-peopled province, from Um Lejj to Kunfida, more
than a fortnight's camel march, had suddenly changed its character from
a rout of casual nomad pilferers to an eruption against Turkey, fighting
her, not certainly in our manner, but fiercely enough, in spite of the
religion which was to raise the East against us in a holy war.
Beyond
anything calculable in figures, we had let loose a passion of
anti-Turkish feeling which, embittered as it had been by generations of
subjection, might die very hard. There was among the tribes in the
fighting zone a nervous enthusiasm common, I suppose, to all national
risings, but strangely disquieting
to one from a land so long delivered that national freedom had become
like the water in our mouths, tasteless.
Later I saw Feisal again, and promised to do my
best for him. My chiefs would arrange a base at Yenbo, where the stores
and supplies he needed would be put ashore for his exclusive use. We
would try to get him officer-volunteers from among the prisoners of war
captured in Mesopotamia or on the Canal. We would form gun crews and
machine-gun crews from the rank and file in the internment camps, and
provide them with such mountain guns and light machine-guns as were
obtainable in Egypt. Lastly, I would advise that British Army officers,
professionals, be sent down to act as advisers and liaison officers with
him in the field.
This time our talk was of the pleasantest, and
ended in warm thanks from him, and an invitation to return as soon as
might be. I explained that my duties in Cairo excluded field work, but
perhaps my chiefs would let me pay a second visit later on, when his
present wants were filled and his movement was going forward
prosperously. Meanwhile I would ask for facilities to go down to Yenbo,
for Egypt, that I might get things on foot promptly. He at once
appointed me an escort of fourteen Juheina Sherifs, all kinsmen of
Mohamed Ali ibn Beidawi, the Emir of the Juheina. They were to deliver
me intact in Yenbo to Sheikh Abd el Kadir el Abdo, its Governor.
Feisal's care gave me an escort of local
Sherifs, who guided me to Yenbo, through other miles of stark hills,
with the hair lines of irrigated valleys threading their barrenness.
Yenbo, a village Jeddah, proved hospitable. Its governor, a Javanese
from Mecca, fed me and lodged me for many days until the Suva,
Captain Boyle, put in to harbour, and granted me passage down the coast.
'Granted me': for I was in a very soiled condition after days of riding
light, and I had a native head-cloth on my head: and to the Royal Navy
all native things seemed crapulous. Boyle, as the senior naval officer
in the Red Sea, should have been the exemplar of his type, but he sat on
the shadow side of his bridge, reading Bryce's American Constitution
too intently to spare me more than fourteen words a day.
Leaving
Hamra as dusk fell, we marched back down Wadi Safra until opposite
Kharma, where we turned to the right up the side valley. It was closely
grown with stiff brushwood, through which we drove our camels
strenuously, having tucked up the streamers of our saddle-bags to save
them from being shredded by the thorns. Two miles later we began to
climb the narrow pass of Dhifran, which gave evidence even by night of
labour expended on the road. It had been artificially smoothed, and the
stones piled at each side into a heavy wall of protection against the
rush of water in the rains. Parts had been graded, and were at times
carried on a causeway built seemingly six or eight feet high, of great
blocks of uncut stone: but it had been breached at every turn by
torrents, and was in terrible ruin.
The ascent lasted perhaps for a mile; and the steep
descent on the other side was about the same. Then we got to the level
and found ourselves in a much broken country of ridges, with an
intricate net of wadies whose main flow was apparently towards the
south-west. The going was good for our camels. We rode for about seven
miles in the dark, and came to a well, Bir el Murra, in a valley bed
under a very low bluff, on whose head the square courses of a small fort
of ashlar stood out against the starry sky. Conceivably both fort and
causeway had been built by an Egyptian Mameluke for the passage of his
pilgrim caravan from Yenbo.
We halted there for the night, sleeping for six
hours, a long luxury upon the road, though this rest was broken twice by
challenges from half-seen mounted parties who had found our bivouac.
Afterwards we wandered among more small ridges until the dawn showed
gentle valleys of sand with strange hills of lava hemming us about. The
lava here was not the blue-black cinder-stone of the fields about
Rabegh: it was rust-coloured, and piled in huge crags of flowing surface
and bent and twisted texture, as though played with oddly while yet
soft. The sand, at first a carpet about the foot of the dolerite,
gradually gained on it. The hills got lower, with the sand banked up
against them in greater drifts, till even the crests were
sand-spattered, and at last drowned beyond sight. So, as the sun became
high and painfully fierce, we led out upon a waste of dunes, rolling southward
for miles down hill to the misty sea, where it lay grey-blue in the
false distance of the heat.
The dunes were narrow. By half-past seven we were
on a staring plain of glassy sand mixed with shingle, overspread by tall
scrub and thorn bushes, with some good acacia trees. We rode very fast
across this, myself in some discomfort; for I was not a skilled rider:
the movement exhausted me, while sweat ran down my forehead and dripped
smartingly into my gritty, sun-cracked eyelids. Sweat was actually
welcome when a drop fell from the end of a tuft of hair, to strike on
the cheek cold and sudden and unexpected like a splash; but these
refreshments were too few to pay for the pain of heat. We pressed on,
while the sand yielded to pure shingle, and that again hardened into the
bed of a great valley, running down by shallow, interwoven mouths
towards the sea.
We crossed over a rise, and from the far side
opened a wide view, which was the delta of Wadi Yenbo, the largest
valley of Northern Hejaz. It seemed a vivid copse of tamarisk and thorn.
To the right some miles up the valley, showed darkly the palm-groves of
Nakhl Mubarak, a village and gardens of the Beni Ibrahim Juheina. In the
distance, ahead of us, lay the massive Jebel Rudhwa, brooding always so
instantly over Yenbo, though more than twenty miles away. We had seen it
from Masturah, for it was one of the great hills of Hejaz, the more
wonderful because it lifted itself in one clear edge from flat Tehama to
crest. My companions felt at home in its protection; so, as the plain
was now dancing with unbearable heat, we took shade under the branches
of a leafy acacia beside the path, and slumbered through the middle
day.
In the afternoon we watered our camels at a
brackish little water hole in the sand bed of a branch watercourse,
before a trim hedge of the feathery tamarisk, and then pushed on for two
more happy hours. At last we halted for the night in typical Tehama
country of bare slowly-swelling sand and shingle ridges, with shallow
valleys.
The Sherifs lit a fire of aromatic wood to bake
bread and boil coffee and we slept sweetly with the salt sea air cool on
our chafed faces. We rose at two in the morning, and raced our camels
over a featureless plain of hard shingle and wet sand to Yenbo, which
stood up with walls and towers on a reef of coral rag twenty feet above
our level. They took me straight through the gates by crumbling, empty
streets - Yenbo had been half a city of the dead since the Hejaz Railway
opened - to the house of Abd el Kader, Feisal's agent, a well-informed,
efficient, quiet and
dignified person, with whom we had had correspondence when he was
postmaster in Mecca, and the Survey in Egypt had been making stamps for
the new State. He had just been transferred here.
With Abd el Kader, in his picturesque rambling
house looking over the deserted square, whence so many Medina caravans
had started, I stayed four days waiting for the ship, which seemed as if
it might fail me at the rendezvous. However, at last the Suva appeared,
with Captain Boyle, who took me back to Jidda. It was my first meeting
with Boyle. He had done much in the beginning of the revolt, and was to
do much more for the future: but I failed to make a good return
impression. I was travel-stained and had no baggage with me. Worst of
all I wore a native head-cloth, put on as a compliment to the Arabs.
Boyle disapproved.
Our persistence in the hat (due to a
misunderstanding of the ways of heat-stroke) had led the East to see
significance in it, and after long thought their wisest brains concluded
that Christians wore the hideous thing that its broad brim might
interpose between their weak eyes and the uncongenial sight of God. So
it reminded Islam continually that God was miscalled and misliked by
Christians. The British thought this prejudice reprehensible (quite
unlike our hatred of a head-cloth) one to be corrected at any price. If
the people would not have us hatted, they should not have us any way.
Now as it happened I had been educated in Syria before the war to wear
the entire Arab outfit when necessary without strangeness, or sense of
being socially compromised. The skirts were a nuisance in running up
stairs, but the head-cloth was even convenient in such a climate. So I
had accepted it when I rode inland, and must now cling to it under fire
of naval disapproval, till some shop should sell me a cap.
In Jidda was the Euryalus, with Admiral
Wemyss, bound for Port Sudan that Sir Rosslyn might visit Sir Reginald
Wingate at Khartoum. Sir Reginald, as Sirdar of the Egyptian Army, had
been put in command of the British military side of the Arab adventure
in place of Sir Henry McMahon, who continued to direct its politics; and
it was necessary for me to see him, to impart my impressions to him. So
I begged the Admiral for a passage over sea, and a place in his train to Khartum. This he readily granted, after cross-questioning me himself at
length.
I found that his active mind and broad intelligence
had engaged his interest in the Arab Revolt from the beginning. He had
come down again and
again in his flagship to lend a hand when things were critical, and had
gone out of his way twenty times to help the shore, which properly was
Army business. He had given the Arabs guns and machine-guns, landing
parties and technical help, with unlimited transport and naval
co-operation, always making a real pleasure of requests, and fulfilling
them in overflowing measure.
Had it not been for Admiral Wemyss' good will, and
prescience, and the admirable way in which Captain Boyle carried out his
wishes, the jealousy of Sir Archibald Murray might have wrecked the
Sherif's rebellion at its start. As it was, Sir Rosslyn Wemyss acted
godfather till the Arabs were on their feet; when he went to London; and
Allenby, coming out fresh to Egypt, found the Arabs a factor on his
battle front, and put the energies and resources of the Army at their
disposal. This was opportune, and a fortunate twist of the whirligig;
for Admiral Wemyss' successor in the naval command in Egypt was not
considered helpful by the other services, though apparently he treated
them no worse than he treated his own subordinates. A hard task, of
course, to succeed Wemyss.
In Port Sudan we saw two British officers of the
Egyptian Army waiting to embark for Rabegh. They were to command the
Egyptian troops in Hejaz, and to do their best to help Aziz el Masri
organise the Arab Regular Force which was going to end the war from
Rabegh. This was my first meeting with Joyce and Davenport, the two
Englishmen to whom the Arab cause owed the greater part of its foreign
debt of gratitude. Joyce worked for long beside me. Of Davenport's
successes in the south we heard by constant report.
Khartum felt cool after Arabia, and nerved me to
show Sir Reginald Wingate my long reports written in those days of
waiting at Yenbo. in which I urged that the situation seemed full of promise. The
main need was skilled assistance; and the campaign should go
prosperously if some regular British officers, professionally competent
and speaking Arabic, were attached to the Arab leaders as technical
advisers, to keep us in proper touch.
Wingate was glad to hear a hopeful view. The Arab
Revolt had been his dream for years. While I was at Khartum chance gave
him the power to play the main part in it; for the workings against Sir
Henry McMahon came to a head, were successful, and ended in his recall
to England. Sir Reginald Wingate was ordered down to Egypt in his stead.
So after two or three
comfortable days in Khartoum, resting and reading the Morte d'Arthur
in the hospitable palace, I went down towards Cairo, feeling that the
responsible person had accepted all my news. The Nile trip became a holiday.
Egypt was, as usual, in the throes of a Rabegh
question. Some aeroplanes were being sent there; and it was being argued
whether to send a brigade of troops after them or not. The head of the
French Military Mission at Jidda, Colonel Bremond (Wilson's counterpart,
but with more authority; for he was a practising light in native
warfare, a success in French Africa, and an ex-chief of staff of a Corps
on the Somme) strongly urged the landing of Allied forces in Hejaz. To
tempt us he had brought to Suez some artillery, some machine-guns, and
some cavalry and infantry, all Algerian Moslem rank and file, with
French officers. These added to the British troops would give the force
an international flavour.
Bremond's specious appreciation of the danger of
the state of affairs in Arabia gained upon Sir Reginald. Wingate was a
British General, commander of a nominal expeditionary force, the Hejaz
Force, which in reality comprised a few liaison officers and a handful
of storemen and instructors. If Bremond got his way he would be G.O.C.
of a genuine brigade of mixed British and French troops, with all its
pleasant machinery of responsibility and despatches, and its prospect of
increment and official recognition. Consequently he wrote a guarded
despatch, half-tending towards direct interference.
As my experience of Arab feeling in the Harb
country had given me strong opinions on the Rabegh question (indeed,
most of my opinions were strong), I wrote for General Clayton, to whose
Arab Bureau I was now formally transferred, a violent memorandum on the
whole subject. Clayton was pleased with my view that the tribes might
defend Rabegh for months if lent advice and guns, but that they would
certainly scatter to their tents again as soon as they heard of the
landing of foreigners in force. Further, that the intervention-plans
were technically unsound, for a brigade would be quite insufficient to
defend the position, to forbid the neighbouring water supplies to the
Turks, and to block their road towards Mecca. I accused Colonel Bremond
of having motives of his own, not military, nor taking account of Arab
interests and of the importance of the revolt to us; and quoted his
words and acts in Hejaz as evidence against him. They gave just
plausible colour to my charge.
Clayton
took the memorandum to Sir Archibald Murray, who, liking its acidity and
force, promptly wired it all home to London as proof that the Arab
experts asking this sacrifice of valuable troops from him were divided
about its wisdom and honesty, even in their own camp. London asked for
explanations; and the atmosphere slowly cleared, though in a less acute
form the Rabegh question lingered for two months more.
My popularity with the Staff in Egypt, due to the
sudden help I had lent to Sir Archibald's prejudices, was novel and
rather amusing. They began to be polite to me, and to say that I was
observant, with a pungent style, and character. They pointed out how
good of them it was to spare me to the Arab cause in its difficulties. I
was sent for by the Commander-in-Chief, but on my way to him was
intercepted by a waiting and agitated aide, and led first into the
presence of the Chief of Staff, General Lynden Bell. To such an extent
had he felt it his duty to support Sir Archibald in his whimsies that
people generally confounded the two as one enemy. So I was astonished
when, as I came in, he jumped to his feet, leaped forward, and gripped
me by the shoulder, hissing, 'Now you're not to frighten him: don't you
forget what I say!'
My face probably showed bewilderment, for his one
eye turned bland and he made me sit down, and talked nicely about
Oxford, and what fun undergrads had, and the interest of my report of
life in Feisal's ranks, and his hope that I would go back there to carry
on what I had so well begun, mixing these amiabilities with remarks of
how nervous the Commander-in-Chief was, and how worried about
everything, and the need there was for me to give him a reassuring
picture of affairs, and yet not a rosy picture, since they could not
afford excursions either way.
I was hugely amused, inwardly, and promised to be
good, but pointed out that my object was to secure the extra stores and
arms and officers the Arabs needed, and how for this end I must enlist
the interest, and, if necessary (for I would stick at nothing in the way
of duty), even the excitement of the Commander-in-Chief; whereupon
General Lynden Bell took me up, saying that supplies were his part, and
in them he did everything without reference, and he thought he might at
once, here and now, admit his new determination to do all he could for
us.
I think he kept his word and was fair to us
thereafter. I was very soothing to his chief.