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T. E. Lawrence to his family
Umm Lejj
16.1.17
I have not written for a fortnight, for at first I was up country
hopping about on a camel, and later there was no post-boat. You see
we have no mail-steamers, but depend entirely on the Navy for our
communications, and they go about their business strictly. However, in
any case you know that I am completely well. I have got leave to stay
down here a fortnight longer, because things here are interesting, and
new. Life in Yenbo was varied, because I lived always on ships, and
while there was always a ship, it was sometimes one and sometimes
another sort of ship. Some were luxurious, some warlike, and some very
plain - but all different. This place you will not find on any map, unless
you buy the northern sheets of the Red Sea Admiralty charts (I don't
recommend them!): any way, it is about 100 miles North of Yenbo, and is
a little group of three villages (about 40 houses in each) on a plain
about a mile square under red granite hills. As it is spring just now
the valleys and slopes are sprinkled with a pale green, and things are
beautiful. The weather is just warm enough to be too hot at midday, but
cold at night. I'm on a ship, as usual.
Sherif Feisul (3rd Son of Sherif of Mecca), to whom
I am attached, is
about 31, tall, slight, lively, well-educated. He is charming towards
me, and we get on perfectly together. He has a tremendous reputation in
the Arab world as a leader of men, and a diplomat. His strong point is
handling tribes: he has the manner that gets on perfectly with
tribesmen, and they all love him. At present he is governing a patch of
country about as large as Wales, and doing it efficiently. I have taken
some good photographs of things here (Arab forces and villages and
things), and will send you copies when I can get prints made. That will
not be till about the end of the month, when I go to Cairo.
My Arabic is getting quite fluent again! I nearly forgot it in Egypt,
where I never spoke for fear of picking up the awful Egyptian accent and
vocabulary. A few months more of this, and I'll be a qualified Arabian.
I wish I had not to go back to Egypt. Any way I have had
a change.
N.
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