T. E. Lawrence to his mother

Grand Hotel Continental
Paimpol

11th August, 1906

Dear Mother

We have got here to Paimpol, after a lovely ride through driving
rain, and over heavy roads. The scenery was beautiful from St. Brieuc to Lanvollon. From Dinan I went to Corseul, and found on the way a most beautiful Roman temple, the Fanum Martis, from which the Capital of the Curiosolites took its Roman name. The ruins are down a by-road with poor surface, and many turns. Although we did not know if we were on the right track, and had no directions, still I walked straight to it! My bump of locality must be enormous. The ruins comprise three sides of a hexagon, and are about forty feet high. The walls, about 4 feet thick, are built of stone, with a lavish amount of mortar, and a slight admixture of Roman brick. The ground all round is strewn with pieces of brick and tile. The facing of the ruins of the walls is formed of small blocks of stone, each exactly a cube, and laid with the most precise and mathematical certainty. The courses are perfectly level, and the whole is more regular than a brick house, or a chessboard. The blocks are about half an inch apart, and the total effect is excellent. I will try to get a photo of it next time I visit it.

From Corseul we went to Montafilant, a Norman Castle, whose moat, now rather swampy, we crossed by a narrow bank only a few inches wide, with water-jumps. The remains are now much ruined, but the old well is still perfect: we pulled up a bucket of water and drank it, for the sake of association. After Montafilant we lost ourselves in a maze of by-roads, for about two hours: Scroggs had a dust-slip, but was not damaged. We had lunch at Plelan-le-petit, and paid 3¾d. each: for this sum we had cider and soda-water, four poached eggs, bread, butter, biscuits etc. On the whole the meal was cheap. From Plelan we rode to Jugon, and walked a hill of two miles long: it was terribly exhausting. From Jugon we went to Lamballe, and had dinner on arrival. Lamballe Mr. Kempshead had recommended for its furniture, but I saw nothing to equal a very pretty little box at Dinan; the costume of Lamballe is rather unusual; I have a p.p.c. of it. Lamballe has a wonderful church Notre-Dame, situated on the highest ground of any round about. We ascended the tower and the view was splendid. The tombs in the church were especially interesting; although the Norman nave was good. There was a rood-loft, absolutely perfect; a little reading desk is situated in front for the gospeller. I sent a postcard of one door (N) of the church: there are twelve pilasters on each side, and the whole is about 4 feet deep. It was very remarkable. From Lamballe we trained to St. Brieuc, a dirty town with a flamboyant and Renaissance Cathedral, containing excellent tombs. At St. Brieuc we had dinner, and were very much amused by the comments of a ? in front of us; he did not know that we knew enough French to understand him, and was covered with confusion when he happened to see us laughing internally. They are most amusing; sitting down to the table, squaring their shoulders, and attacking 'Course 8' with the same ferocity and sternness as they did the first. 

From St. Brieuc we rode up a beautifully engineered road, up hill for 3 kils. The views into the valley were perfect. We went through Lanvollon, in which church I found two little medallions of rather nice stained glass, put away in a loft. I will try and get them from the Curé on return. At Coetimen we saw a château, and at Lanleff a most interesting round church of very early Norman date. The capitals had crossed lines scratched on them to about ¼ of 1 inch deep. The Church, (ruined) was nearly a facsimile of that at Cambridge, but it was ruder, and had a little apse about 5 feet deep, as a chapel to St. Amtong. The chancel was destroyed. From Lanleff we rode here straight; arriving quite late, owing to the badness of the roads. I cannot write any more just now.

[About 21 words partly illegible]. Love to all.