T. E. Lawrence to his family

Dinan

Thursday, 9 August, 1906

Rode with Scroggs to Lehon today, after coming here without incident except a puncture on quay which I mended while the 'permit' was obtained. The scenery of Rance from the lock to Dinan was magnificent; we rode of course along the towpath which had excellent surface, free from flints. Lehon is very interesting: the ruins are of course very ruined, but the whole is instructive, as an example of a Norman castle, without any later additions. We climbed all over the remains, and I got stuck on a tower, and had a 30 ft. climb down a wall. It was quite safe, and impressed Scroggs greatly as did our "dejeuner" at the Grand Hôtel de Europe in Dinan. Menu was Sardines, Cold Meat, Eggs, Hash, Fowl, Salad, Desert: what will the Dîner be? I had some of everything!

Lehon Abbey (more properly a Priory) is splendid: the Church is fine, but too much restored: the effigies in it were very interesting. One was to a female, Tiphaine du Guesclin, daughter of the famous Constable; who was so named after her mother. The effigy lay on the North Side of the Presbytery, and was most remarkable. She died in 1417 the widow of Jean V de Beaumanoir. She was dressed in a jupon, which buttoned down the front with 22 circular buttons; the button-holes were yet quite clear, slightly puckered round her waist, which was exceedingly small, and tightly drawn. The front of the jupon terminated in a tassel, with large bow. The jupon closed quite close round her neck, forming a low collar like the modern military tunic. The sleeves (no man's jupon ever had sleeves), were fairly full and descended to the wrist; underneath it was seen the edge of the vambrace. She wore genoullières, with square plates beneath them, jambs and sollerets, of three large and heavy laminated plates. She also had rowel, spurs, and her feet rested on an eagle expansed bearing a shield (billets or) on the front, held in its beak. The eagle was very faithfully and clearly drawn, and the claws drawn very true to nature. At the sides of the effigy were six other shields, bearing the billets or; the arms of her husband the count of Beaumanoir. The eagle expansed is the badge of the Duguesclin family. Her hands were bare, and finely shaped. Her head was resting on a cushion, with a corded tassel at each corner; her hair, confined by a narrow fillet alone, flowed in two curls one outside each ear, while the rest was cut short and parted regularly down the centre. Her face was perfect, without any mutilation, and exhibited the calm repose and angelic purity which the mediaeval sculptor knew so well to blend, with a certain martial simplicity and haughtiness. The figure is carved from white stone, and is yet perfect; it is about five feet six inches in length, and, in its combination of female dress and armour, is so far as I know unique. Opposite her on the other side of the church lay her husband assassinated in 1385. He is chiefly remarkable for two gigantic curls, each supported by a sturdy angel. He has a beard, and wears jupon gorget pauldrons, brassarts, coutes, and a large sword. His feet of six lames were resting on a lion. He bore a shield with nine billets or. Two almost identical figures of Lords of Lehon (14th cent.) were interesting as having slipped off their gauntles, and coifs de mailles, just as Septvans whom they greatly resembled. One of them had his feet covered with scale armour. They wore surcoats, and demi-jambs. A Prior of the 14th cent. has a beautiful canopy, and has his wrists crossed. Raoulin de Redon wears a Tabard, quarterly. Two ladies of about 1440 complete this wonderful series, and one of these effigies to a lady was the most perfect example of artistic merit that I have seen in effigies. It would have adorned the Parthenon. Her face was perfect, and her dress most beautifully arranged: I am going out to try to obtain photographs of these effigies, and to explore the furniture shops: no time for anything more.