T. E. Lawrence to his mother

Fleece Hotel
Colchester

August 13 [1905]

Dear Mother,

It seems rather a long time since I wrote to you, and so, as its Sunday, we have decided that it is my turn to write to you. This morning Father and I went to St. Botolph's, the modern church near the old Priory Ruins. We have Picture P. Cards of the present state of the ruins so you will be able to compare the two views. The Ruins are all made of Roman tiles; - thousands of them, - and even the arcading is made of tiles. The actual large Norman Arch in the centre is, however, faced with stone. Behind this entrance there are a number of Norman Piers all made of rubble and bricks; they were once faced with plaster, The modern church (Built in 1836) is a very good specimen of modern Norman; in fact Father and I had only two holes to pick in it, and it harmonises excellently with the old being made of a greyish brick. Colchester is all over Roman remains; all the churches are full of Roman tiles and brick work, from Saxon Holy Trinity to Italian Renaissance St. Peter's: the Castle is brick from top to bottom; and large portions of the old walls still remain all round the town. The West Gate (Roman) still exists entire. It is rather like a tunnel and is about 11 feet high but only 5 feet wide. Its masonry is rubble and every two feet up are four courses of Roman tile. The stone work is regular at the bottom and has been squared. Up above it degenerates. There are about four rows of tiling altogether; and the wall is about 13ft. high. The mortar is as soft as cheese. Next the gate was a guard room; nearly perfect; all except its roof, which had been of wood. The stone vaulting of the gate and guard room passage was perfect.

The dotted part is where the vaulting remains.

If possible I shall get post cards of the gate. It was far in a way the most interesting thing I have seen this trip. We came here from Ipswich over a rather hilly road 18 miles long. Still we took two hours over it; and walked about six hills; a proceeding Father does not like. We are feeding splendidly.

Father is much better and has not coughed since Lynn. I have had to give up Bures. We came by the other road because of the wind; still I hope to get Pebmarsh tomorrow; and I got one yesterday so I'm not altogether mournful. I have sent off all my rubbings to Miss Powell; hope she'll like them. I expect you have Will with you now. Will you please tell him not to let you do more work than is necessary to keep you in condition? Also tickle Arnie when he gets up and when he goes to bed; all from me. Tell him there are dozens of butterflies of all sorts about here, some Red Admirals; and a lot of other very queer ones. Ask Beadle to come up here if he has never seen a Death's Head or some such insect.

Norwich Museum he would have enjoyed. There was the largest collection of raptorial birds in existence 409 out of 470 species: I wonder if he'll shriek with horror when he hears that I did not look at them but went off and examined the Norman W.C.s. In the hall was a thrilling stuffed group a boa constrictor strangling a tiger. We hope to return to Oxford Wednesday. Kindly take heaps of love from me for yourself; and when you've had enough, divide the remainder into three portions, and give them to the three worms you have with you. I wonder how the Doctor is enjoying Jerry. Don't forget the Canon's birthday next Sunday.  We have had one post card from Will, 1 from yourself and one letter from you. Loud snores to all and love to yourself.

Ned

• Bures, Pebmarsh: places where Lawrence had planned to make brass rubbings
• 'Beadle': Will Lawrence
• 'Jerry': a dog
• 'the Canon': Canon Christopher, of St Aldate's church, Oxford
• The line illustrations in HL were traced from Lawrence's originals by M.R. Lawrence, who edited the volume.